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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.